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About Graziano Fontana

You could call Faedo a small sub-appelation within the Italian Trentino. The small town, or rather villange, is somehow cut off from the big traffic arteries, lying on a height of 450 meter above the valley of the Adige (or Etsch in German), with a superb view on the "Campo Rotaliano" in the valley, where the red Teroldego is produced in gigantic quantities. No Teroldego in Faedo, but rather Pinot Nero and Lagrein (South Tyrol is very near)! As for white wines, one finds the varieties that are common to Trentino: Müller-Thurgau, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Bianco and Traminer Aromatico, sometimes the native Nosiola.
The wines of Faedo distinguish themselves from the other Trentino wines by their pureness and power. Their secret? A strongly calcareous clay soil and quality-driven wine-making. The classical grape of Faedo is the Müller-Thurgau, which may have found in this area its purest expression: very dry and slim, and characterized by the typical, intensely piquant and floral nose.
The pioneers of quality wine making in Faedo were Mario Pojer and Alessandro Sandri, who already in the seventies introduced new varieties and techniques and cleared the path for other and smaller wine growers. Graziano Fontana is widely recognized as the most succesful among them, in the first place due to his amazing Sauvignon Bianco. Particular for the wines of Fontana are the labels with "le due chiese", the two churches that stand side by side in the centre of Faedo.
The wines of the Azienda Agricola Graziano Fontana
Müller-Thurgau di Faedo

The classic white grape of Faedo. Not plump as so often in Germany, but slim and extremely concentrated. Contrary to the general opinion, the Müller-Thurgau is not a cross-breed of Riesling and Silvaner. Recent genetic research has traced back the Müller-Thurgau to the Riesling and the "Madeleine Royal". Anyway, if vinified in the right manner, the Müller-thurgau can produce wines of a remarkable freshness and with a spicy and floral aroma.
A pale yellow colour. A nose of hazel nut, chestnut and the typical piquant, lava-like Müller-Thurgau aroma. Full flavour referring to rhubarber and citrus. Slightly peppery. A long and juicy finish.

Sauvignon di Faedo

The highlight of the Azienda Agricola Fontana. A typical and very intense nose of green grass and sage, enriched with citrus and anise. Rich flavour of cassis and grapefruit. A veritable Sauvignon Blanc.

Traminer Aromatico di Faedo

A nice example of a dry Gewürztraminer! Golden colour. An intense floral, honey-like nose. A very concentrated but dry flavour. 14% of alcohol, but this is not unusual for this grape in Italy. Nice acids in the finish, though, and the alcolhol is certainly not overdone.
(This wine is no longer available, 20/10/2005.)

Pinot Nero Barrique di Faedo

For 12 months ripened on oak barriques. A beautiful bright red colour. An intense nose of strawberries and cranberries, a touch of vanilla. The same fruit is to be found in the flavour. Substantial but nicely rounded acids, no sharpness. A very drinkable Pinot Nero, not always an evidency in this part of Italy. (This wine is no longer available, 05/06/2006.)

Lagrein Barrique di Faedo

Equally ripened for 12 months on oak barriques. Colour is a dark purple, nearly eggplant. A nose of ripe fruit, an autumnal flavour. Generally speaking a soft wine. (This wine is no longer available, 05/06/2006.)

© DE KONING DRINKT. Last modified on 05/06/2006