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About Matilde Poggi

Matilde Poggi is in charge of the family farm Le Fraghe, some 28 acres in Cavaion Veronese close to the Garda lake, since 1984. Cavaion lies in the heart of the Bardolino area, in the central "Bardolino Classico" zone. The region, which is dominated by big cooperatives, floods Europe each year with a sea of light red wines, in which independent producers can not easily distinct themselves.
Some producers resort to foreign grapes such as Cabernet en Merlot in order to boost up their wines. Others, among them Matilde Poggi, cling to the authenticity of the Bardolino and choose for a qualitative approach. Since the eighties the vines of Le Fraghe have been replanted with a greater density, while yields were reduced drastically (they now average 60 hectolitres pro acre). The Corvina and Rondinella vines have been replanted on different plots, as the Rondinella, having a thicker skin and thus contributing more to the modest tannins of the Bardolino, ripens later than the Corvina. The inferior Molinara was eliminated altogether. Experiments with the Chardonnay were halted despite their commercial success. For a moment it seemed that even the Chiaretto was to become a victim of this firmness, but eventually (and luckily) this was not the case.
The wines of Le Fraghe always get good scores in the Italian wine guides.

The wines of Azienda Agricola Le Fraghe
Camporengo

In the Western Veneto the Trebbiano Toscano, the Tocai and the Garganega are the traditional white varieties. The sole white wine of Le Fraghe is a "monocépage" of Garganega. A very rich aroma, with impressions of apricots and chicory. Flavour of ripe peaches and, again, chicory. A full-bodied white wine that can best be drunk with a light meal.

Bardolino Chiaretto

The Chiaretto is made with the same varieties as the Bardolino, being Corvina and Rondinella, but vinified according to the "rosé" procedure, meaning: fermented during a very short period. The resulting wine is extremely fresh and at the same time particularly aromatic and fruity. The recent 2002 vintage not surprisingly won an Italian prize for its "bevebilità". To be drunk during spring and summer.

Bardolino

As one of the quality pioneers of the appelation, Matilde Poggi aims at restoring the Bardolino in its authenticity and intends to get rid of the cheap, touristical image of the wine. The 2004 vintage, assembled from Corvina and Rondinella, has a strikingly dark colour for a Bardolino. The aroma is floral and fruitful, a bit leathery, the flavour is quadrupled fruit (water melon, raspberries) and nicely "corsé". No muscle rolling here, this is pure Italian sophistication.

Quaiare

In the "Bardolino" appelation many a wine maker is experimenting enthousiastically with red varieties other than the traditional Corvina, Rondinella or Molinara. Since 2001 a "Bardolino Superiore" may legally contain up to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Some producers make use of this possibility to create darker and more structured Bardolino wines. As Matilde Poggi clings to the authenticity of her Bardolino, she decided to make a separate cuvée with the Cabernets. Vintage 2000 is by all means a ripe, concentrated and classy wine (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc). Not a trace of the "green" tannins often encountered in Northern Italy. The typical, penetrating black cherry aroma of the Cabernet Sauvignon, spiced with juniper, roasted chicory, grinded coffee, clove, pine needles... While waltzing lots of cassis comes up. Flavour of (again) cassis and black cherries, cocoa and clove. An unbelievably rich wine, nevertheless requiring oxygen and time to be fully appreciated.

© DE KONING DRINKT. Last modified on 12/05/2007