About Friedrich Becker |
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In the utmost southern part of the German Palatine, a stone's throw
from the French border, lies the small wine village of Schweigen.
It is famous for its "Deutsches Weintor", the gate that
marks the beginning (or the end) of the "Deutsche Weinstrasse".
It owes its good reputation to its very able wine producers, who
cunningly exploit the chalky terroir to produce very mineral and
fruit oriented wines.
The wine farm of Friedrich Becker comprises some 15 acres, of which
half is located in France. It is there, on the rich chalk and marl
ground of Wissembourg, that the Spätburgunder (or Pinot Noir)
vines of the house are grown. Becker's Spätburgunders are highly
esteemed in Germany and he is generally considered as one of the
best German red wine producers. During every step of the wine making
process, the Beckers (senior and junior are called Friedrich) apply
the highest quality standards: when selecting the soil for a specific
grape, when pruning the vines in summer, during the fermentation
of the wine and the ripening in the cellar. All this to create wines
that are an incomparable expression of grape and terroir.
In the eighties Becker was renowned for forsaking on the production
of sweet wines, at that time no less than an act of rebellion in
Germany. Here lies the origin of the labels of the "Weingut",
which refer to the tale of de La Fontaine (or is it Aesopus?): "The
grapes are sour."
In 2006 Fritz Becker was proclaimed "Aufsteiger des Jahres"
by Gault-Millay. For him this constitutes a new start and not a
finishing point. Having spent twenty years to learn to make excellent
Pinot Noir, he is convinced that there is still a lot of progress
to be made. Once asked how one makes good red wine, Becker senior
answered: "Mit dem Bauch" (with the stomach). So it should
be no surprise that some wine connoisseurs assert Becker's wines
as "emotional". How does an "emotional" wine
taste? Why not try?
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The wines of the Weingut Friedrich Becker |
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Spätburgunder "B" |
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"B" stands for "barrique". As the Beckers focus
on fruit, "barrique" does not mean: excess of (French)
oak. (The oak comes from the Palatine.) A ruby red. A marvelous
nose of raspberry, cherries, leather, a hint of chocolate, very
mineral too. In the flavour perfectly round fruit supported by a
fleshy structure. This wine has a finesse and a length that leave
you speechless. German red wine? Ja bitte... |
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Spätburgunder Sankt-Paul |
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In
Wissembourg, just across the French border, Fritz Becker has acquired
a "château", known by the name St. Paul. It is a
former fortification of the abbey of Wissembourg. Here is grown
on (for the time being) half an acre the top Pinot Noir of the house.
At a depth of 20 cm a layer of "löss" and marl commences.
This is a Pinot Noir that challenges the best Burgundies and that
is sometimes described as "pure sensuality". Vintage 2004
got a score of 92 by Gault-Millau. |
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