About Roberto Marsetti |
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Tradition, bevebility, long term. We have heard these key words mentioned
more than once while talking to Roberto Marsetti about his wines and
"la terra". "La terra", being Valtellina, is a
rough and not easily accessible mountainous region in the North of
Lombardy, where people have been fighting the rocks for ages now.
Nebbiolo is the grape of old in Valtellina, grown in terraces that
are connected by steep and narrow neck-breaking stairs. Although the
Nebbiolo is the grape of the famous Barolo's and Barbaresco's in the
Piedmont, Valtellina has never attained the renown of the Piedmont
region. Probably because it has too long been focused almost exclusively
on Switzerland and has always been dominated by a limited number of
cooperatives. Roberto Marsetti is one of the very few independent
wine growers in Valtellina and the owner of 5 acres of vineyards above
Sondrio, an ancient town that is the centre of the Grumello appelation.
The other appelations are: Sassella, Inferno, Valgella, of which Sassella
has the best reputation.
The "Valtellina Superiore" is a DOCG wine, the highest category
within the Italian classification system. Yields are consequently
low, bringing about concentrated wines able to preserve their strength
during a very long time. As if to illustrate this, Roberto gets a
1986 Grumello out of the family cellar, uncorks it and decants it
very gently into a bowler. The wine is simply astonishing! A complex
and dense aroma with layers and layers of fruit, leather and spices...
The flavour is still amazingly powerful and fresh. We can hardly wait
to taste the 2000 vintage in 15 years!
Another speciality of the Valtellina is the "Sfursat", a
Nebbiolo wine produced according to the well-known Amarone-process.
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The wines of the Azienda Agricola Marsetti
Alberto |
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Valtellina Superiore
Grumello |
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This
is the favorite wine of the Marsetti family, whose belief it is
that oak (or wood in general) is good for the wine, but should not
spoil the fun! 100% Nebbiolo ripened on mostly oak and partly chestnut
barrels of 30 hectolitres. The oak makes the wine taste more sweetly,
the chestnut gives it a hint of bitter. Ruby red. Nose of strawberries,
other berries too, spices such as cinnamon and clove. A full-bodied
wine with lots of complex fruit, supported by a pleasant acidity.
Surely does not have the severity characterizing many other Valtellinas.
Destined to last for years. |
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Valtellina Superiore
Le Prudenze |
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Ripened
on small French barriques, which renders aroma and flavour even
more intense. 100% Nebbiolo. Colour ruby to pomegranate red. An
aroma of prunes, strawberries, red berries. Furthermore graphite,
tobacco, a hint of leather. Warm and dry, well balanced acids, a
finish dominated by soft tannins. A wine that evolves amazingly
in the glass. |
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Valtellina Sfursat |
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A
fortified wine made in the same manner as Amarone, the "Sfursat"
is the most wanted wine in Valtellina and often competes with the
classical Amarone when it comes to concentration and fruit. Made
as well from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. Ripened on oak barriques during
18 months. Due to the subsequent bottle ripening, the wood is now
smoothly integrated, allowing us to fully appreciate the abundant
fruit and spices. A nose of blackberries, strawberries, cinnamon,
clove. The taste (which is dry, not sweet!) remains soft and fresh,
the acids being a perfect counterweight to the full-bodied fruit.
A wine that goes well with game and chocolate. |
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