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About Roberto Marsetti

Tradition, bevebility, long term. We have heard these key words mentioned more than once while talking to Roberto Marsetti about his wines and "la terra". "La terra", being Valtellina, is a rough and not easily accessible mountainous region in the North of Lombardy, where people have been fighting the rocks for ages now. Nebbiolo is the grape of old in Valtellina, grown in terraces that are connected by steep and narrow neck-breaking stairs. Although the Nebbiolo is the grape of the famous Barolo's and Barbaresco's in the Piedmont, Valtellina has never attained the renown of the Piedmont region. Probably because it has too long been focused almost exclusively on Switzerland and has always been dominated by a limited number of cooperatives. Roberto Marsetti is one of the very few independent wine growers in Valtellina and the owner of 5 acres of vineyards above Sondrio, an ancient town that is the centre of the Grumello appelation. The other appelations are: Sassella, Inferno, Valgella, of which Sassella has the best reputation.
The "Valtellina Superiore" is a DOCG wine, the highest category within the Italian classification system. Yields are consequently low, bringing about concentrated wines able to preserve their strength during a very long time. As if to illustrate this, Roberto gets a 1986 Grumello out of the family cellar, uncorks it and decants it very gently into a bowler. The wine is simply astonishing! A complex and dense aroma with layers and layers of fruit, leather and spices... The flavour is still amazingly powerful and fresh. We can hardly wait to taste the 2000 vintage in 15 years!
Another speciality of the Valtellina is the "Sfursat", a Nebbiolo wine produced according to the well-known Amarone-process.
The wines of the Azienda Agricola Marsetti Alberto
Valtellina Superiore Grumello

This is the favorite wine of the Marsetti family, whose belief it is that oak (or wood in general) is good for the wine, but should not spoil the fun! 100% Nebbiolo ripened on mostly oak and partly chestnut barrels of 30 hectolitres. The oak makes the wine taste more sweetly, the chestnut gives it a hint of bitter. Ruby red. Nose of strawberries, other berries too, spices such as cinnamon and clove. A full-bodied wine with lots of complex fruit, supported by a pleasant acidity. Surely does not have the severity characterizing many other Valtellinas. Destined to last for years.

Valtellina Superiore Le Prudenze

Ripened on small French barriques, which renders aroma and flavour even more intense. 100% Nebbiolo. Colour ruby to pomegranate red. An aroma of prunes, strawberries, red berries. Furthermore graphite, tobacco, a hint of leather. Warm and dry, well balanced acids, a finish dominated by soft tannins. A wine that evolves amazingly in the glass.

Valtellina Sfursat

A fortified wine made in the same manner as Amarone, the "Sfursat" is the most wanted wine in Valtellina and often competes with the classical Amarone when it comes to concentration and fruit. Made as well from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. Ripened on oak barriques during 18 months. Due to the subsequent bottle ripening, the wood is now smoothly integrated, allowing us to fully appreciate the abundant fruit and spices. A nose of blackberries, strawberries, cinnamon, clove. The taste (which is dry, not sweet!) remains soft and fresh, the acids being a perfect counterweight to the full-bodied fruit. A wine that goes well with game and chocolate.

© DE KONING DRINKT. Last modified on 04/09/2005